# 46 We Cannot Plan for Magic: One Fantastic Day in Chinchero, Peru
On market people, ancient terraces, the Inca trail, and bridesmaids—a photo essay
“Would you like me to wait for you?” our young taxi driver asks us when we arrive at noon in Chinchero, an Andean village 30 km (18 miles) north of Cusco.
Daniel and I look at each other. The proposal is enticing. We have no arrangement for our way back to Cusco and it was a hassle to get here.
I’d planned to take a colectivo, an irregular type of bus, but after we crossed the crowded city and found the right departure spot, we were dissuaded by a long line of locals with crying children, nervous animals, and bulging luggage, waiting to board the next minivan. I splurged and app-booked a car instead.
Should we pay our kind taxi driver for the convenience of having a certain ride home? I have no clue how many local taxi drivers are available on a Sunday afternoon or how much they charge, and booking another car from the village with my app will likely fail.
“I can wait for two hours,” the young driver tells us.
I’m tempted. Uncertainty makes me nervous. But my intuition tells me we’re cutting ourselves short if we agree on a return time right now. What if we love the village so much, we don’t want to leave until nightfall?
There’s no point going anywhere if you already know exactly what you’ll find.
The Chinchero market
The Chinchero market is known for being less touristic than its counterpart in Pisac.
Daniel and I approach an asphalted square where some forty stalls are set up.
“Is this it?” I ask.
The actual market place is apparently being renovated, and people are selling their produce from the unattractive parking lot. The Sunday edition of the market is supposed to be the liveliest, but besides the vendors, there’s hardly anybody here.
Perhaps we’re too late, after noon. Perhaps I’m spoiled by my vibrant market experiences in Asia and Mexico.
After five minutes on the market, we’re ready to leave. But we don’t. Something tells us to observe.
There’s nothing spectacular going on, but there is definitely something to smell: fried pork belly, llama wool, mint and other herbs. Something to hear: not Spanish but Quechua. Something to eat: stuffed peppers and aguaymantos, which taste like tart cherries. And something to see. The locals tell entire stories with their faces and with the colors, textures, and conditions of their hats and clothes.
In front of the Chinchero church
They’re sitting on the wall like birds on a wire. A group of older men on the left and a group of older women on the right, dressed in matching vests.
Others are filing out of the church where a service must have just ended.
We’re not sure what’s going on, but we feel things are afoot.
We linger for a while, hoping to witness a celebration or ceremony. When that doesn’t happen, we make our way to the Inca ruins below.
The Chinchero archaeological site
“Wow. Just, wow,” Daniel says when we spot the walled terraces.
This is our first Inca site and we’re sincerely impressed by its condition and scope. Stark shadows add their own magic.
We roam from left to right, up and down, without a plan. We greet grazing llamas and a handful of other people. It’s early August, high season, yet you wouldn’t know it from being here. The majority of tourists only go to Cusco and Machu Picchu, leaving gorgeous ruins like Chinchero’s for lucky visitors like us to enjoy.
From above, live music pours down. The celebration we hoped to witness must be taking place. We stay on the terraces, brought to live now with a soundtrack of local Andean music.
When we spot hikers at the bottom of the Inca stairs disappearing into the forest, we get curious. There must be a path. Where does it go?
The Inca trail
The path is not just a path. It’s part of the ancient Inca trail! Before we know it, we are on it, making our way down to a waterfall. What an unexpected treat! We’re glad not to have a schedule and relish the freedom uncertainty brings.
The weather couldn’t be more perfect, cool air temperatures and a warming winter sun.
Hungry and tired, we climb back up, pausing many times to catch our breath. Hiking at high elevation is a challenge.
The Wedding
Upon our return to the church square, the groups of older men and women are gone. They are replaced by what seems to be a wedding party. The beautiful bridesmaids are wearing matching capes and hats, and are posing for photos.
I feel blessed to witness their joyous dances outside, yet too self-conscious to make photos. Even Daniel puts his camera away and simply takes in the magic.
Close to sunset, we find a cluster of people on the main street.
“Are you waiting for the colectivo to Cusco?” I ask.
They are.
Later we ride with these same people like sardines in a can yet totally happy. Magic is worth the squeeze.
I’m Claire Polders, a writer of fiction and nonfiction. Read about my books and more on my website www.clairepolders.com.
The photos in this essay are made by Daniel Presley on a Ricoh GRIIIx.
Practical Information on Chinchero
Most people come to Chinchero to visit the archaeological site that is included in the Boleto Turistico, the ticket you need to see popular sites in the Sacred Valley, such as Sagsaywamán. What is and isn’t included on the ticket seems to change often, so check it with a reliable source. Machu Picchu is for sure not included.
The archaeological site of Chinchero is impressive in its scale and mountain setting with sweeping views of snow-laden peaks. You could see it in an hour, yet can also spend a day if you hike down on the Inca trail toward the Poc Poc waterfall. The elevation (3,762 m /12,343 ft) is higher than in Cusco, so make sure you are acclimatized if you plan to hike back up the mountain. You can also continue onward to Urquillos, some 9km away and make your way back to Cusco from that village.
Chinchero itself is not the authentic village is claims to be. It’s filled with souvenir stalls and empanada vendors. But it’s interesting to visit the little church, gaze at the one remaining Inca palace wall, admire sweaters at the textile center, and observe locals at the market.
If you’re lucky, you may run into a band, a wedding, a religious ceremony, or all three. But don’t plan for it. Chances are, you will find your own magic by keeping an open schedule and open mind.
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Perhaps you’ve noticed: I’m off-schedule. I’m prioritizing my travels through Peru over getting this newsletter out on time. I’m proud of myself. See you some time next week!
All my best,
Claire
P.S. What was your most magical unplanned experience?
These are wonderful photos Claire. So colorful. And the Inca stairs is spectacular 😀
Congrats on embracing of the uncertainty, Claire! 🙌 Sounds like magical day. And I love Daniel's photos.