# 13 Journey to a Lesser Visited Region of Japan: Itoshima

On overtourism, Totoro's forest, and living inside a poem

Japan has been in the news for being overtouristed.

The number of people allowed to climb Mount Fuji has been limited due to rising accidents and prior booking is now a must. A convenience store with a view of the mountain’s famous peak felt compelled to place a barrier to keep Instagrammers away. Kyoto has become more proactive in tackling overtourism, such as closing alleys from visitors to protect the geishas from being harassed. And in Tokyo, you cannot visit the Ghibli Museum unless you have reserved tickets long in advance.

With the yen at it lowest level since 34 years, even more travelers are expected to flock to the country.

Is it still a good idea to travel to Japan? Can you find quiet places where your presence isn’t a nuisance? What’s life like in a less-touristed region of Japan?

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Escape From City Life

Daniel and I took off with the disadvantage of a 2 a.m. flight in Da Nang (Vietnam) and a long layover in Seoul (Korea). But we arrive with the convenience of Japanese transport and the gift of hospitality.

The international terminal at Fukuoka airport is being renovated and more chaotic than it’s supposed to be. Still, we locate the ATM machine and the free shuttle bus to the domestic terminal without trouble. We board the subway with our rechargeable cards and travel alongside a throng of commuters. In less than an hour and with only one transfer, we arrive at the Chikuzen-Maebaru station in Itoshima, where our host is waiting to pick us up.

The Itoshima peninsula is green with mountains and farmland and quiet with contemplation. Residents from Fukuoka and beyond come here year-round to escape their city life. There are spring cherry blossoms and pick-all-you-can-eat strawberry fields, summer beaches and European-themed cafes, autumn trees and artisanal puddings, winter oysters and sacred rocks.

Itoshima, in short, is not a hidden gem and knows how to draw visitors. But it’s not often on a foreigner’s tourist map.

We’re too late for the cherry blossoms and too early for the hydrangeas, but right on time for the wisteria hanging fragrantly from a roof.

Our goal was to travel to a less visited region of Japan, yet we couldn’t decide where to go. Every faraway corner seemed equally interesting. So we let ourselves be guided by coincidence, curiosity, and human connection. When we met our host online and saw her wooden house on the coast, we just knew this was the place for us.